Mount Shuksan | Fisher Chimneys

Mount Shuksan is the often-photographed jewel of the Cascades. Stunning from every aspect and in every season, its major faces and ridge lines provide excellent climbing in classic North Cascades style. The classic Fisher Chimneys route provides a wide range of terrain including old growth forest walking, exposed scrambling, moderate ice climbing, and glacier travel. An incredible campsite high in the mountains and a tiny summit add to the allure of this climb.

The climb begins with an approach hike from the Lake Ann trailhead, where you traverse through beautiful forests and gradually gain elevation up to Lake Ann. The hike offers glimpses of the surrounding peaks and valleys, building anticipation for the climb ahead.

Upon reaching the base of Mount Shuksan, you enter the Fisher Chimneys, a series of gullies and exposed ledges that lead to the upper mountain. The route involves navigating through steep, rocky terrain, requiring solid scrambling skills and careful route finding. The chimneys can be a mix of solid rock, loose sections, or snowy gullies and demand focused attention and movement to efficiently ascend.

Beyond the chimneys, the route transitions to glacier travel as you first climb Winnie’s Slide, a rope length of steep snow or ice. Shortly above, we traverse the Upper Curtis Glacier towards Hell’s Highway, another steep section of glacier. This section involves climbing icy slopes, crossing crevasses and utilizing glacier travel techniques. Approaching the summit pyramid, the terrain becomes steeper and more technical. You encounter rock climbing that varies from scrambling up to low 5-th class climbing on rock faces and narrow ridges.

Climbing the Fisher Chimneys route on Mount Shuksan requires moderate rock climbing skills, experience in alpine environments, and knowledge of glacier travel. A memorable and challenging endeavor, this route combines diverse climbing experiences, stunning scenery, and a sense of accomplishment that makes it a highly sought-after objective in the North Cascades.

ELEVATION: 9,131 feet / 2783 meters
ROUTE:          Fisher Chimneys
DIFFICULTY:  Intermediate
DURATION:    3 days

Cost: $1295

Duration: 3 days

Ratio: 2:1, 4 person maximum, 2 person minimum. 1:1 trips are available at a different rate.

Prerequisites:

Previous rock climbing experience. Multipitch experience is recommended.
Rappelling experience
Experience using crampons. Glacier travel experience is recommended.
Very good physical fitness and able to carry a 40lb backpack for multiple days
At least 18 years old

Cost Includes:
Climbing Permits
Guide fees
Hot water for meals and drinks while on the mountain
Group & guide equipment including tents, ropes, and cooking gear

Cost Does Not Include:
Transportation
Personal equipment or rentals
Food / drinks
Hotels/lodging/food/beverages before & after the climb
Any expenses due to an early departure (transportation, evacuation fees, extra hotel stays, etc.)
Trip cancellation insurance

Day 1
Meet at Edgeworks Bellevue at 6:00AM to do an equipment check, distribute group gear, and carpool to the trailhead. On the way, we will check in with the National Park Service in Glacier to get an update on conditions and collect our climbing permit. Once at the trailhead, we will grab our gear and make the approach to high camp which involves a full day of hiking and roped climbing to get to camp.

Day 2
Climbing day! Our day starts in the pre-dawn hours with climbing across two glaciers towards the summit pyramid. The climbing culminates with pitched climbing on snow and rock up to a tiny summit that provides incredible view into the heart of the North Cascades. This day often takes groups 10-16 hours roundtrip.

Day 3
On day three, we descend the Fisher Chimneys and return to the trailhead.

Alternate Option
Day three is our alternate summit day. If weather or conditions do not permit climbing on day two, we will attempt to complete the climb on day three, followed by a hike back to the trailhead.

Note: Like any day in the mountains, maintaining flexibility with the itinerary is paramount. There are many things outside of our control such as route conditions, weather, and human factors that could alter the planned itinerary.

Gear List - Mountaineering

Note: This climb requires two ice tools in August and September.

Rentals
Helmet -- Available for rent or purchase
Harness -- Available for rent or purchase
Crampons - Available for rent
Ice Axe - Available for rent
Tent - Available for rent
Stove - Available for rent

If you do not have any of the gear on this list, contact us at guiding@edgeworksclimbing.com to secure rentals or set up a purchase.

Outdoor Terms & Conditions

This policy applies to ALL Edgeworks programming that occurs outdoors including, but not limited to, Outdoor Climbing School courses and Guiding. Edgeworks has carefully crafted this policy to ensure fairness to both our clients and our guide staff. Our programs have significant pre-departure expenses, including permit fees, equipment preparation, staff training, and scheduling. Please contact us for clarification about this policy.

Payment Timeline

Full payment is due at the time of booking.
Twenty-five percent (25%) is considered the trip deposit and is NON-REFUNDABLE.

Cancellation & Rescheduling Policy

When you cancel or reschedule:

All requests must be made in writing to guiding@edgeworksclimbing.com and be received in our office within the deadlines stated herein.
If you cancel less than 30 calendar days before the trip, no refund or credit will be issued.
If you cancel more than 30 calendar days before the trip, the 25% trip deposit is non-refundable.
If you reschedule more than 30 calendar days before the trip, all fees will be credited to the new trip.
If you reschedule less than 30 calendar days prior to the trip, it will be treated as a cancellation and no refund will be issued.
If you ‘no-show’ to a program or any portion of a program, no refund or credit will be issued or pro-rated.
Once you leave the trailhead or program start area, no refund or credit will be issued for any reason including instances of inclement weather, environmental conditions, personal fitness, or injury.
We will attempt to accommodate changes and cancellations when necessary, waiving certain fees when feasible. Reschedule requests due to documented injury will receive the most accommodations.
If it is not possible to reschedule in the foreseeable future, a non-refundable credit will be offered for future trips.

When we cancel or reschedule:

Edgeworks reserves the right to cancel or reschedule a program at any time for any reason.
A full refund will be issued.
We will try to place you in the same program at a later date, if space is available.

Weather Policy

All of our outdoor programs are subject to the weather and environmental conditions that exist on the dates you have chosen. In signing up for a trip, you are agreeing to attempt the program even if conditions are not “ideal.”

Before the trip begins -- if conditions are deemed unsafe by the guide, we reserve the right to change the venue, itinerary, or activity. If we decide that conditions are unsuitable for any alternative activities, we will work with you to reschedule or refund.
After your trip begins -- if weather or conditions make the original plan not feasible, you are not entitled to a refund.

Trip Cancellation Insurance

Edgeworks strongly encourages the purchase of trip cancellation insurance that covers losses in the event that illness or injury prevents participation in your chosen program. There are many providers of this service; we have had positive experiences with TravelGuard.com.

Cost Includes

Group Equipment
Instruction/Guiding
Certification, permit, or documentation fees, if applicable

Cost Does Not Include

Personal Equipment
Rental Equipment
Guide Gratuities
Transportation or Lodging
Guide transportation on custom trips

We love seeing kids enjoying the outdoors. Edgeworks allows minors to participate in our outdoor programs under the following conditions:

All forms must be completed by their parent/legal guardian before the activity
Minors are not allowed on scheduled overnight programs, unless their parent/guardian is also present

Winter & Mountain Programs – Scheduled Courses

Ages 15 and below - not allowed on scheduled courses/trips
Age 16-17 – participant’s parent/guardian must be present during the course

Custom Winter & Mountain Events | Family Groups, Scout Groups, Community/School Groups

At least one parent/guardian must be present at all times
Age 14+

Custom Courses & Wait List
Contact us at guiding@edgeworksclimbing.com to arrange a custom course or to be added to the course waitlist.

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